Choosing

Do you need an off-road caravan?

Dealer yards are full of caravans built for dirt and owned by people who never leave bitumen. This test sorts the choice and accounts for what the heavier build costs when unused.

4 min readUpdated 2026-09-11

Sort your nights, not your self-image

  1. Sealed road, caravan park or powered site.

  2. Formed, maintained gravel.

  3. Corrugated road. Sustained washboard.

  4. Station tracks and unmaintained gravel.

  5. Sand, water crossings and travel beyond phone coverage.

The once-a-decade trip

What the heavier build costs you when you do not use it

What the lighter build costs you when you should have gone heavier

Eight questions to take to the dealer

  1. What is the suspension, by brand, model and rating?

  2. Is the wall system timber-free, and what is the roof?

  3. What coupling is fitted?

  4. What tyre and rim, and what load rating?

  5. What is the fresh water capacity and tank count?

  6. What is the tare for this exact plan, and what does it include?

  7. What is the ATM, and does axle count change it?

  8. What does the warranty cover and exclude on unsealed roads?

How Network RV splits it

Then go and stand in one

Common questions

Generally an on-road van with upgraded suspension and tyres for maintained gravel. There is no standard, so read the components.

Most of Highway 1 is sealed. Count the nights genuinely on corrugated or unmaintained roads.

Maintained gravel differs from sustained corrugations. Confirm manufacturer, warranty and insurer positions.

Generally yes. Suspension, walls, water and hardware add mass. The compliance plate is the authority.

Only if you use it. Running gear and wall system cannot be added later; the interior specification is shared.

Write out genuinely planned trips for the next three years and count nights by surface.

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Two ranges, neither one the upgrade

Pick the range by the roads you will drive, then the plan by who is sleeping in it.